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Active: 1 hr.Total Time: 2 hrs.Serving: 8Make-Ahead

"I started making my Abilene sauce 20 years ago, and every year I tweak it or add something," says Olivia chef James Holmes of his signature barbecue sauce. Despite its spicy intensity, the pork and beer flavors come straight through.

Ingredients

1. Six 12-ounce bottles lager2. 3 racks baby back ribs (3 1/2 pounds), each rack cut in half3. 2 carrots, coarsely chopped4. 2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped5. 1 large onion, coarsely chopped sauce

Sauce

1/4 cup rendered bacon fat1 medium onion, coarsely chopped5 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped1/4 cup finely chopped fresh ginger1 cup fresh orange juice1 cup ketchup3/4 cup cider vinegar3/4 cup light brown sugar1/2 cup strong-brewed coffee1/2 cup sambal oelek or other Asian chile sauce1/2 cup unsulfured molasses1/2 cup tamarind concentrate (see Note)1/2 cup Dijon mustard1/2 cup Worcestershire sauceKosher salt and freshly ground pepperVegetable oil, for brushing

Directions

1. In a large pot, combine the lager, baby back ribs, carrots, celery and onion and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat, turning the ribs a few times, until the ribs are tender, about 1 1/2 hours.

2.Transfer the ribs to a work surface and let cool. Cut in between the ribs at 2-rib intervals.

3. In a large saucepan, heat the bacon fat. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 5 minutes longer.

4.Whisk in the orange juice, ketchup, vinegar, brown sugar, coffee, sambal oelek, molasses, tamarind concentrate, mustard and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a boil.

5. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Working in batches, puree the sauce in a food processor.

3. Light a grill. Brush the ribs with oil. Grill over moderate heat, turning, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Brush the ribs with the sauce and grill, turning and brushing with more sauce, until richly glazed and browned, about 2 minutes longer. Serve the ribs with extra sauce for dipping.

Make Ahead The cooked ribs can be refrigerated in their braising liquid overnight and reheated gently before grilling. The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. Notes Tamarind concentrate is available at Asian markets and at specialty food stores